Centre console switch panel
How?? What?? Why?!
You may be wondering what even are those switches for? What do they do? Put simply these switches operates a few quirks and features I have installed. Why fit switches there? Well to be completely honest there is not a massive number of places where you can fit switches on the NC/MK3 interior truth be told. Not neatly anyways…
Oh, and what is the deal with the NC1 coin-holder alteration? So, the switch lines that come away from the switches go to a generic 6 slot/blade fuse-block that rests directly underneath this cover. The reason for top modification is I needed to cutaway at the original coin-holder to remove some depth. Of course after I did this it wasn’t as rigid and looked pance. So, with a little bit of left over pinsil ABS material I cut this to original shape and bonded it with TigerSeal. Then I found a few allen bolts in each of the four corners helped the ends stay down tight. Beside that I just think it adds character like an old school switch panel from the 70/80’s had.
(photo of footwell LEDS at night from driver seat perspective)
What do they do then? Okay so working from left to right the first switch operates my Opt7 footwell lighting kit. These can be controlled via smartphone, but I always leave it on bright red to match my theme; black and red. The second from the left is currently a spare ready for an Opt7 underglow kit. The third from the left is also a spare right now as it’s intended purpose is to power an innovative oil temperature & pressure gauge and a boost gauge for when it’s turbocharged. The far-right switch enables my rear-view camera which is a Kenwood CMOS230 camera. When flipped it automatically displays the camera’s video feed on the head-unit.
(photo of reverse camera from driver seat perspective)
So what’s under the altered coin-holder?
As mentioned above on this post, coming away from the “switch line” side of the switch they all go to this little generic 6 slot ATC/ATO fuse holder. That way all of the circuits are fused down as closet to their wattage rating. The fuse block is fed from the top and the load is connected to the bottom set of terminals. The connectors I used on the bottom side are insulated flag-style crimp connectors that require a special tool and are used to prevent wiring going too close to the sifter boot and requiring removal to service transmission etc. This way it reduces the physical footprint of the terminations at the bottom of the fuse block.
Where do I source power from?
So, there are two circuits that are fused with a 20amp mini fuse(s). Those two circuits are the heated-seat warmers and the Bose amplifier. Since I neither have stock seats anymore nor want heated-seats and have done a full BOSEctomey I no longer needed them. So about 3 inches from the tails in the interior fuse box I cut them and used heat-shrink crimps to join them with the same size wire. The amplifier circuit is 2.5mm2 and the heated seats are 1.5mm2. These sizes are well over-rated and overkill for the few amps I will draw with my new circuit(s).