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My Build

A lil about the car

I brought this car back in (month and year). Originally I was always set on the assumption NC’s were useless compared to the other generations. Something about the cars style eventually grew on me fast. I didn’t take long to go on the ‘old Google and see what and how people were modifying them. I immediately decided I was set on finding a NC. But at that point I had no idea what I should be looking for, so a few weeks of doing some homework I found I’d be looking at a “Sport” model for everything I wanted in a MX-5.

Once I found out what I wanted I immediately started watching all auction and car selling websites to find something in my budget. Which was about £3,000. This was going to be my second car after a year of driving a 1 series BMW E81 around for my first year of driving. So as you can see I’m biased towards RWD. Originally I wanted a MX-5 as my first car but due to UK insurance prices that was never going to come to be. So this was the second best option. Eventually I found the perfect candidate and drove down to (place) to pick up my NC1 Sport.

I knew the MX-5/Roadster/Miata community was strong but I was blown away by how many like-minded people their were and how much effort owners put towards helping others in any way, shape or form. My favoruite is probably Those Americans really do make excellent articles.

Anyways enough rambling your here for the spec lists aren’t you? 😉



  • BC-Racing BR-series coilovers.
  • BC-Racing BR-series coilover dampening adjustment extenders (rears).
  • Barbarian Front-strut brace.
  • Titan slim internal drive locking wheel nuts.
  • Hel performance stainless-steel braided brake lines (all round).
  • Nielex Brake/Clutch master reservoir brace (brand-new just came out of Japan).

Engine Performance Parts

  • NGK Iridium Spark-plugs (ILTR5A-13G).
  • Revised Mazda OEM dipstick.
  • ISR rear Muffler.
  • Battery relocated to boot and upgraded with a Yausa YBX9096 60Ah 760Amp. Wired with 65mm2 ofc cable with a 400Amp ANL-style fuseholder in the boot to protect main power cable. Connected in to the original starter and (120Amp) fusebox with a Rockford Fosgate power distribution block.


  • WeAreLikewise Thicc Boi (weighted shift-knob).
  • WeAreLikewise Rod Stewart (original) (shift-extension).
  • Leather shift+handbrake boot with red stitching.
  • Circuit-Sports handbrake button anodised red (drift button) (I retain the spring so just for show).
  • Personal (Nardi) Neo Grinta 350mm leather with red stitching.
  • NRG Quick-release V2.0 red.
  • WorksBell Short Boss MK3/NC.
  • JBL 8602 6×8 2-way coaxial speakers (with custom mount for stock 8″ round) (also this is done as the car has a BOSEctomey and the speakers are being driven straight from the head-unit).
  • I.L.Motorsport centre storage compartment (twin centre cup-holder delete).
  • Pioneer SPH-DA130DAB Apple Carplay head-unit.
  • Pioneer windsheild mount DAB aerial.
  • Pioneer telephone microphone (Apple Carplay).
  • USB extension for centre storage (to plug in phone to HU for Carplay).
  • Broadway 300mm flat rear mirror.
  • 5Race Rollbar (soft-top compatible) (Required chopping upper rear plastic enough to access the bar for harnesses).
  • Black car carpet underneath soft-top rear (to hide everything from above view) (I did retain the rear soft-top glass tray tho).
  • Sparco EVO QRT fiberglass bucket seat.
  • Cybul bucket-seat mount.
  • Op7 Aura Pro (Bluetooth) interior footwell lighting LED’s.


  • GV-Style front lip.
  • eBay (California) plastic rear diffuser.
  • Honda S2000 AEM short-stubby aerial.
  • “MiniMiracle” Fiberglass duck tail MK3 soft-top spoiler.
  • Clear side repeaters (indicators) housings.
  • Generic rear mirror blind-spot-mirrors

More Info

To find out more about my chassis setup please navigate to the second page via the page numbers below.